Nagoya (3)

No trip is complete without some photography. I chose to visit Shirakawago and Takayama in the middle of this journey.

Shirakawago was nice. Not as nice as it would have been in winter with all the snow and the light-up festival. But I was happy there seemed to be more gweilo and HK people than mainlanders. I had a great time taking photos and flying my Mavic.

For Nagoya, sadly I couldn’t find any place photogenic. I didn’t go to the Nagoya Castle. In fact I avoid all ancient Japanese castle because they all look the same. They have the same architecture style, the same guard rivers, the same foundation stones, the same white walls, and the same green-coloured roof. Instead I went to two museums on the only full day I was in Nagoya.

One of the museums was a good surprise. After my unagi lunch at Houraiken (蓬萊軒), I saw a poster of a Doraemon exhibition in the very same building. I went to the exhibition and it was about how other artists depict Doraemon. One artist imagined what would it be like to be with Doraemon in the digital age. She showed pictures of her and Doraemon dating and taking HK girl-style selfies and posting them on social media. There was also this gorgeous big backdrop made by Takashi Murakami (村上隆). Imagine what it would be like if the same exhibition was held in HK? Well I don’t have to imagine. I’ve seen the crowd in Pixar exhibition and the anicent Egypt exhibition. You can’t properly experience art in that crowd.

When I briefly browsed around a lifestyle store, there was a corner explaining their company’s history. This company, Noritake, makes all sorts of stuff, from household utensils to electronic chips. Then I was attracted to this: porcelain dental crowns and tooth stone models. It turned out (according to them) their porcelain was so good it found its way into dental application. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is the little bit of dentistry in this trip.

Nagoya (1)
Nagoya (2)

Nagoya (2)

My blog and my Facebook/Instagram pages are about “coffee, food, photography, and a bit of dentistry”. We’ve talked about coffee in the last post. What about food in Nagoya?

Well I have to admit I’m a bit boring in this trip. Instead of looking for local delicacies (like miso soup udon and chicken wings, I just looked for nice Japanese food in general. I had sushi, unagi and sukiyaki again. I did have some Hida beef which is famous in this area. (Two meals in fact, one BBQ and one French style).

I said earlier it’s my mission to look for the best unagi restaurant in Japan. I reported that I found one in Okayama. But now I have to make a correction. The place in Okayama was best for its Shirayaki Unagi (白燒鰻魚), but for the ordinary Kabayaki Unagi (蒲燒鰻魚), I’ve found my new favourite — Houraiken (蓬萊軒) in Nagoya. I was reluctant about visiting it at first because it was famous among tourists, meaning a long queue is expected and food may just be overrated. However the truth is it’s also famous among locals and indeed over half of the queue comprised the Japanese. The unagi was crispier than other unagi I’ve tried, and the Kabayaki source was richer. And if you want to elevate your unagi experience you have to try Kimoyaki (鰻肝).

If you think that travelling is all about the surprises you encounter during the journey, I have to remind you there are both good surprises and bad surprises. The nice cafe I encountered in Takayama is for sure a good surprise, but the restaurant I’m about to mention is a bad surprise.

Determined to try something new, I booked a whole new beef restaurant to have sukiyaki all the while knowing there’s a branch of Imahan (人形町今半, the first sukiyaki I had ever) in Nagoya. That restaurant was as inhospitable as a restaurant in Japan could get. My goal was to have sukiyaki with Hida beef. I made a reservation one week ago. I arrived on time. I was seated in a table for four, which wasn’t surprising in Japan at all. I ordered a sukiyaki set (the menu said ¥xxxxx/pax). All seemed smooth. But then I was told that sukiyaki can only be ordered for two people up. What’s worse, I was later led to a smaller table because apparently they had a group of four. I eventually had to resort to BBQ Hida beef, which was still good, but the experience I got meant this restaurant will never be ranked top of my list.

[TBC]

Nagoya (1) – Food

Nagoya

Nagoya is rated the most boring city in Japan.1

That’s what I learnt after I bought my ticket to Nagoya one month ago. Well, I didn’t expect anything in the first place. I just thought after so many Tokyo trips, I should really go to somewhere new. So, what’s Nagoya really like?

For a start, it doesn’t have nice coffee. When I do research for my trips, the first thing I’ll find is adorable cafes. While I’ve been to many good ones in Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, and even Sapporo, there were none I could locate in Nagoya. The best coffee I could find was in my hotel room, where I brew drip bags from Urban Coffee Roasters. The second best coffee was at Starbucks Reserve, where they serve single origin small lot coffee with their Clover machine. Well, that’s better than none.

Speaking about coffee in Japan, an honourable mention is that at 7-Eleven. It’s often said that each convenience store brand has a famous item. 7-Eleven is for its coffee; Lawson is for its fried chicken. I still haven’t found what is from Family Mart though. Let me know if you have your own favourite.

However I did go to a nice cafe that serves speciality coffee during this trip. It was when I was in Takayama, a truly remote place (judging by its lack of street light during the night). This was a real surprise because I didn’t plan the visit in advance. I just walked past that place and thought it was nice. What’s better? I was the only customer during my visit, meaning I could really enjoy a peace of mind while I was there. This is something Tokyo couldn’t offer.


Traveller Coffee House

[TBC]

1. https://www.hk01.com/即時國際/239122/名古屋再獲選為-最無魅力城市-市長無奈-不認真思考不行