Lost in Tokyo

I’m back from another annual trip to Tokyo. Boring as some might think, Tokyo is actually the best place to visit if you want to experience the best of modern Japan. The keyword here is “modern”. True, it might not have those old temples in Kyoto, the vast nature in Hokkaido, or the authentic culture in less commonly visited places like Yonago. But what’s bad about being modern? In my opinion, the “traditional culture” one experiences is made for tourists, with a standard recipe to entertain the most number of people. But in downtown Tokyo you experience the everyday life of the Japanese, and such modern “everyday” elements are the true contemporary culture of Japan.

When you visit a city so many times, navigation becomes easy. You are confident about which train to catch, where to buy tickets, etc. If you run out of ideas for new places to visit, or if there’s a sudden change of plan, you immediately have backup plans in your mind. Yes, a true good place is one that’s worth revisiting, be it a museum, a cafe or a restaurant. And a sign that you’re already part of that city is when you can slow down instead of rushing to different spots in the most efficient amount of time. I believe I have done that, having spent way too much time in cafes.

In the meantime, you get lost when you’ve visited a place too many times. I’m dying to dig more deeply into this lovely city. Finding more routine places the locals visit, interacting with more locals, or perhaps even experiencing some subcultures in this city, these are the things I’d like to do next. But I don’t speak Japanese, and most Japanese don’t speak English. Language barrier in Japan is a true hurdle for foreigners. Perhaps it’s time to start learning Japanese?

Nagoya (3)

No trip is complete without some photography. I chose to visit Shirakawago and Takayama in the middle of this journey.

Shirakawago was nice. Not as nice as it would have been in winter with all the snow and the light-up festival. But I was happy there seemed to be more gweilo and HK people than mainlanders. I had a great time taking photos and flying my Mavic.

For Nagoya, sadly I couldn’t find any place photogenic. I didn’t go to the Nagoya Castle. In fact I avoid all ancient Japanese castle because they all look the same. They have the same architecture style, the same guard rivers, the same foundation stones, the same white walls, and the same green-coloured roof. Instead I went to two museums on the only full day I was in Nagoya.

One of the museums was a good surprise. After my unagi lunch at Houraiken (蓬萊軒), I saw a poster of a Doraemon exhibition in the very same building. I went to the exhibition and it was about how other artists depict Doraemon. One artist imagined what would it be like to be with Doraemon in the digital age. She showed pictures of her and Doraemon dating and taking HK girl-style selfies and posting them on social media. There was also this gorgeous big backdrop made by Takashi Murakami (村上隆). Imagine what it would be like if the same exhibition was held in HK? Well I don’t have to imagine. I’ve seen the crowd in Pixar exhibition and the anicent Egypt exhibition. You can’t properly experience art in that crowd.

When I briefly browsed around a lifestyle store, there was a corner explaining their company’s history. This company, Noritake, makes all sorts of stuff, from household utensils to electronic chips. Then I was attracted to this: porcelain dental crowns and tooth stone models. It turned out (according to them) their porcelain was so good it found its way into dental application. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is the little bit of dentistry in this trip.

Nagoya (1)
Nagoya (2)

Nagoya (2)

My blog and my Facebook/Instagram pages are about “coffee, food, photography, and a bit of dentistry”. We’ve talked about coffee in the last post. What about food in Nagoya?

Well I have to admit I’m a bit boring in this trip. Instead of looking for local delicacies (like miso soup udon and chicken wings, I just looked for nice Japanese food in general. I had sushi, unagi and sukiyaki again. I did have some Hida beef which is famous in this area. (Two meals in fact, one BBQ and one French style).

I said earlier it’s my mission to look for the best unagi restaurant in Japan. I reported that I found one in Okayama. But now I have to make a correction. The place in Okayama was best for its Shirayaki Unagi (白燒鰻魚), but for the ordinary Kabayaki Unagi (蒲燒鰻魚), I’ve found my new favourite — Houraiken (蓬萊軒) in Nagoya. I was reluctant about visiting it at first because it was famous among tourists, meaning a long queue is expected and food may just be overrated. However the truth is it’s also famous among locals and indeed over half of the queue comprised the Japanese. The unagi was crispier than other unagi I’ve tried, and the Kabayaki source was richer. And if you want to elevate your unagi experience you have to try Kimoyaki (鰻肝).

If you think that travelling is all about the surprises you encounter during the journey, I have to remind you there are both good surprises and bad surprises. The nice cafe I encountered in Takayama is for sure a good surprise, but the restaurant I’m about to mention is a bad surprise.

Determined to try something new, I booked a whole new beef restaurant to have sukiyaki all the while knowing there’s a branch of Imahan (人形町今半, the first sukiyaki I had ever) in Nagoya. That restaurant was as inhospitable as a restaurant in Japan could get. My goal was to have sukiyaki with Hida beef. I made a reservation one week ago. I arrived on time. I was seated in a table for four, which wasn’t surprising in Japan at all. I ordered a sukiyaki set (the menu said ¥xxxxx/pax). All seemed smooth. But then I was told that sukiyaki can only be ordered for two people up. What’s worse, I was later led to a smaller table because apparently they had a group of four. I eventually had to resort to BBQ Hida beef, which was still good, but the experience I got meant this restaurant will never be ranked top of my list.

[TBC]

Nagoya (1) – Food

Nagoya

Nagoya is rated the most boring city in Japan.1

That’s what I learnt after I bought my ticket to Nagoya one month ago. Well, I didn’t expect anything in the first place. I just thought after so many Tokyo trips, I should really go to somewhere new. So, what’s Nagoya really like?

For a start, it doesn’t have nice coffee. When I do research for my trips, the first thing I’ll find is adorable cafes. While I’ve been to many good ones in Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, and even Sapporo, there were none I could locate in Nagoya. The best coffee I could find was in my hotel room, where I brew drip bags from Urban Coffee Roasters. The second best coffee was at Starbucks Reserve, where they serve single origin small lot coffee with their Clover machine. Well, that’s better than none.

Speaking about coffee in Japan, an honourable mention is that at 7-Eleven. It’s often said that each convenience store brand has a famous item. 7-Eleven is for its coffee; Lawson is for its fried chicken. I still haven’t found what is from Family Mart though. Let me know if you have your own favourite.

However I did go to a nice cafe that serves speciality coffee during this trip. It was when I was in Takayama, a truly remote place (judging by its lack of street light during the night). This was a real surprise because I didn’t plan the visit in advance. I just walked past that place and thought it was nice. What’s better? I was the only customer during my visit, meaning I could really enjoy a peace of mind while I was there. This is something Tokyo couldn’t offer.


Traveller Coffee House

[TBC]

1. https://www.hk01.com/即時國際/239122/名古屋再獲選為-最無魅力城市-市長無奈-不認真思考不行

Trip to Tokyo (2015)

So, I travelled alone again, to Tokyo. This trip almost got cancelled as I recovered from hand-food-mouth disease and considered focusing on work. I stayed rational at the end: resorted to playing hard. I’m glad I chose to do that.

Instead of sharing what I did in this trip, I’m going to share some insights from this trip. A lot of them are photography-related because I just love photography. But they somehow apply even if you’re not a photographer.

1) Try to blend into the locals. This doesn’t work when you’re travelling in Europe or in South America for obvious reasons, but in Japan, it works. Don’t wear a backpack, and don’t use a camera neck-strap. I even bought a long transparent umbrella as most Japaneses carry with them in the rain. This way, people always thought I’m a local and spoke Japanese to me before I spoke in English. This is advantageous when you take stealthy street photos.

2) Slow down. Don’t rush in one location and go to another due to time constraints. It’d be even more stupid if you rush even when you have no time constraints. That’s exactly what I did in Singapore and Taipei. Having learnt from that, or perhaps because Japan was a much more interesting place to visit, I succeeded slowing down myself. Do things slowly and I’m sure you’ll experience something unexpected.

3) Do research. Some places just close at the most unexpected times. Most restaurants in Taipei close on Mondays, for instance. And most importantly, Tsukiji Market closes on a certain days. I’m sure most of you know this better than I do as you travel so often.

4) Speaking of Tsukiji market, I have to make one thing very clear. The most famous ones, or the “Big Two” as I call: Sushi Big (壽司大) and Big Equal (大和), are good enough. But is it worth it waiting for four hours for Sushi Big? Think about your experience at Tokichi (中村籐吉) and you’ll know. Besides, from my experience the best one In Tsukiji is not Big Equal (I’ve never been to Sushi Big so I have no idea about that); it’s a less famous one called Chi Man (鮨文). I visited there once two years ago. When I came back this year, I decided to try Big Equal. But I was so regretted about my decision I went to Tsukiji again the next day and had Chi Man. Oh btw, have I mentioned I arrived at Tsukiji at 6-7 am for two consecutive days? This was kinda crazy considering my age, but I loved it.

5) Try those fancy sushi places in Ginza. I’m not talking about 梅登利… From the very early stage planing this trip I decided to spend a fortune at those Michelin-starred sushi bars in Ginza. This was in fact inspired by Shinzo Abe taking Barack Obama to Ginza’s Sukiyabashi Jiro. Of course I couldn’t afford that, and it required booking months in advance. At the end I shortlisted some: Sushi Kanesaka (2-star), Sushi Iwa (1-star), and Kyubey (久兵衛, 1-star), and visited Kyubey. It was good enough, and lunch there was quite a bargain. I spent only ¥8400 for an omakase set. You only eat moderately good sushi for this price in HK; but in Japan, this was already top quality by HK’s standard. Of course in Japan, they could reach even higher standards as prices go up.

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March overview, trip to Osaka/Kyoto

So, I’m back from Japan, again. March was quite eventful actually. At the beginning I attended an Ortho course, now quite eager to do some braces. I went on a trip to Osaka and Kyoto, came back to HK safe and sound. And when I was back, I had more driving practice sessions and took the driving exam, and now I’m officially a licensed driver. 

Oh, one more thing. We met our dearest Eugene, after four long years since his last visit to HK in 2010. We spent a fun afternoon like when we were teenagers — eat, play, making fun of MK, you name it. Q1 of 2014 wasn’t completely wasted, I’d say. 

Osaka/Kyoto Trip
Japan was still very Japan — clean, polite, but this time, there was also cherry blossom. It wasn’t the best season when we got there, but thankfully we still managed to see some. The whole trip was about photography, and I took quite a few of them — 25GB of photos to be exact. It’ll take 30 years for me to get them all processed, i.e. when I’m retired. My dual m43 setup proved quite useful. I got enough focal lengths, enough sharpness, enough bokeh, and at the end, great photos. A few years ago I said my blood type was coffee. Now I think I’m a mixed blood type — coffee/photography. 

Two things I’ve learnt from this trip. One, when you go to chain restaurants like those for ramen, never go to the branch stated on the travel book. Instead try looking for other branches, and you’ll end up suffering less from waiting time, if at all. Two, most tourist spots have two train stations, which are often operated by different railway companies. Try to arrive at one station, go to the tourist spots on a planned route, and leave at another station. This way you don’t have to walk back to the original station. 

[TBC]